Electric stovetop burners are pretty simple to troubleshoot.
If there is power to your appliance, in most cases any burner issue will boil down to one of three problematic stove parts - the burner, the burner receptacle or the burner switch.
These burners run with 240-volt power which is supplied via a circuit (when it is closed). The switch is responsible for supplying the power only when the circuit stays closed. If it opens, that means the switch will signify that the power must not reach the burner anymore.
To diagnose a burner that won't work, the first thing to make sure of is that the burner itself is not defective. Anyone can perform a DIY stove repair on a faulty burner because it's as simply as pulling it out and putting the new one in. The two legs easily slide into place.
So, switch the problematic burner for one that works and see if it still works. If it does that means the burner does need to be replaced; if the burner you switch in suddenly doesn't work, now it's time to check the burner switch and receptacle.
The burner switch signals to the burner whether the circuit is open or closed. It allows for electricity to pass through and let the burner produce heat. If the switch is faulty, the burner will either never get the signal to produce heat or it might work intermittently and suddenly stop working while in use. A switch cannot be fixed and needs to be replaced if it's defective.
The receptacle needs replaced if there is visible damage. Look for any burnt metal or charred wires. If either exist, the block must be swapped out for a new one but this is a more tedious repair and should be left to a professional.
Does your oven offer a self-cleaning function? While it sounds useful, ultimately this feature is usually better off left alone. The biggest problem with self-cleaning cycles is that the oven is operating at ultra high temperatures for long periods of time. The oven heats up beyond 1000 degrees Fahrenheit, double the temperature of an oven's high broil option. The oven door usually cannot be opened again until the temperature goes below 600 degrees. However, it's very common for the door lock mechanism to become defective because of the high temps and this usually results in the door getting stuck locked.